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MB&F’s Sporty LM Perpetual EVO Works Hard and Plays Hard - Barron's

The LM Perpetual EVO in bright atomic orange.

MB&F

MB&F’s latest horological machine, the LM Perpetual EVO (US$167,000), celebrates the independent brand’s 15th birthday with a sporty incarnation of its award-winning Legacy Machine Perpetual. 

The EVO suffix is a reference to the brand’s evolution since it burst onto the watch scene in 2007 with the unveiling of the HM1—a groundbreaking piece that, in retrospect, looks relatively conventional compared to the iconoclastic, sci-fi contraptions that followed. 

“What started off on a whim—I wanted to modify our Perpetual so that I could wear it at the beach in Dubai—has actually turned into a new milestone for the company,” says MB&F founder Maximilian Büsser by email from Dubai, where he lives. “I initially just wanted to put a rubber strap onto my Legacy Machine Perpetual, which meant finally redesigning the case to ensure a real fit to the rubber strap.”

In black.

MB&F

Billed as a watch “for life” rather than for sport, the EVO updates the LM Perpetual with a redesigned, sleeker 44mm case crafted from zirconium, a lustrous silvery-gray metal that’s lighter than steel and tougher than titanium. “Unfortunately, it’s so much harder to machine and polish than titanium, but it has a beautiful darker-gray hue to it,” Büsser says. 

The updated ergonomic, double-sprung pushers and an integrated rubber strap maximize comfort even when you’re active, while legibility is optimized with Super-LumiNova applied to the time and calendar displays that light up the dial after dark. 

The monobloc shock-absorption system makes EVO the most rugged MB&F to date. A screw-down crown endows it with water-resistance down to 80 meters (270 feet), another benchmark for the brand.

Removing the bezel and fusing the domed sapphire crystal directly to the case opens up the dial to dramatic effect. For even more visual oomph, EVO goes bold with colored PVD/CVD dial-plates in black, blue, and a bright atomic orange, which was more challenging to get right than meets the eye. Each version is limited to 15 pieces.

The movement in blue.

MB&F

Launched in 2015, the LM Perpetual’s award-winning engine was designed by Stephen McDonnell, S who emphasized user friendliness with an innovative mechanical processor system featuring built-in safety features. The design allows you to independently set hours, minutes, day, date, month, and leap year simply by pressing the correctors, so there’s no need for special tools to make adjustments. 

The fully integrated, manual-winding movement includes double mainspring barrels and a distinctive, oversize 14mm balance wheel with traditional regulating screws visible on top of the movement, infusing the piece with alluring steampunk flair. Meticulous hand-finishing and engravings pay homage to traditional 19th-century techniques, such as internal beveled angles and “côtes de Genève ” (Geneva stripes).

“This was a three-year journey that started with a very egocentric wish and ended up with a game-changing variation of our beautiful, classic Legacy line,” Büsser says. “It is clearly an Evolution—not a new line—but it gives a totally different attitude to the piece.”

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MB&F’s Sporty LM Perpetual EVO Works Hard and Plays Hard - Barron's
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